Snapshots of Greece-2019
Each of the 9 photos below is the cover of a photo album. Double click on the album title beneath the photo. It takes you to that album. If you are interested in reading about the trip, it begins after the photos.
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Athens
Athens greets you with ancient architecture, vibrant colors, music that inspires dance, and cultural extremes, provoking the senses and the imagination. It’s the jumping-off point to island exploration. It’s the birthplace of democracy in the world. The city itself is a trojan horse where it’s easy to let your guard down until you have completely surrendered yourself to its undeniable charm and delicious culinary delights.
On my first trip to Athens in 1964, it snowed on the acropolis. I was on winter break and escaping the cold in Salzburg, but it seemed to follow us. On this visit, there was not a hint of fluff. The weather was inviting as were the Greeks and the everywhere ancient ruins.
Nafplio
Nafplio is charming, full of narrow streets with red Bougainville in bloom everywhere. You can meander for hours, taking in the local movement, vistas, and shops. In addition, the alleyways are full of inviting cafes and delicious Greek food. It is small town that begs you to stay for a few days.
It is located only 2 hours by bus from Athens. You’ll cross the 8-meter-deep Corinth Canal, a gateway to the Peloponnese peninsula. The Canal, in itself, is an impressive site, only 21 m wide, yet 6 km long.
Nafplio sits on the water and offers a rambling seafront promenade. Above the town, nicely embroidered into the hillside is the Palamidi Palace. It’s nearly 100 steps to the top. Just opposite the Palace is another hill offering spectacular views. You can walk the ridgeline, past ancient ruins and a charming Orthodox church. It’s no wonder that Nafplio is so romanticized.
Hydra
Hydra is an island. It is possible to visit it on a day trip via ferry from Piraeus, the main port of Athens. Like so many of the Greek islands, it is hilly with rural charm. Most population congregates around the main port and other smaller villages marked by an Orthodox Church or two atop the highest nearby hill.
You can explore the coastline by an ancient system of trails. Motorized Transport is banned but watch your step. The island purportedly has the world’s largest working population of horses, donkeys, and mules. The beaches seen far below, nest against the sea, with its shades of emerald green to deepish blue, in an endless array of isolated coves. It’s an inviting scene and many people flock to the more developed beaches that offer seaside umbrellas and local dishes harvested from the Aegean.
Santorini
Santorini is undeniably one of the most beautiful islands in the World. The town spreads itself like white paint brushed on the cliffs above the ancient, aqua blue-filled, volcanic caldera. Many speculate that at the bottom of this volcano lies the sunken city of Atlantis.
The sunsets are magnificent and especially from the nearby village of Oia. After dark, lights, and candles add a surreal glow to the evening sky. Every town on Santorini is up and down, winding, and often windy. Streets everywhere are narrow, more pathway than roadway. The architectural color is white, useful for reflecting the intoxicating sun. Cubed shaped walls, white and rounded, present a purity of contrast to the world juxtaposed against all the blue cupolas, everchanging blue sky, and the deep blue of the Aegean Sea. Therein lies its magic. The tiniest change in elevation, altering your perspective, elicits photographic genius from all attempts to capture elusive moments of Santorini light.
Cruise Ships visit and deposit 4000 sightseers from distant ports that besiege the town like a plague. One day there were 4 ships that conservatively deposited 10000 tourists, a number greater than the town inhabitants. Fortunately, after a couple of hours, the passengers retreat back to the sea loaded with memorabilia for an onboard meal. Shortly thereafter they settle into the lounge and their cabins for the overnight cruise to the next island.
Photos of Santorini
We rented an ATV, a 3-wheel motorized bike with oversized wheels, and escaped to isolated beaches and villages during the day, returning after sunset for the daily departure of the cruise ships. In the evening the town avails itself in a more relaxed and simpler tone. It could be dinner and drinks overlooking the sea. Or perhaps a faux wedding where we danced like Zorba and celebrated the newlyweds by smashing plates.
Folegandros
Folegandros, a small island on the way to Milos, intrigued me. It appeared not so much a destination, but a 10-minute port of call to deliver supplies. According to a Google search, Folegandros had beautiful beaches, a traditional Chora, and a small, picturesque harbor. It didn’t appear to be touristy. Thus it might offer the Greek island experience we were after.
We found a hotel with a gorgeous view and swimming pool, booked 2 nights, and cast our fate to the Greek Gods. Our very crowed boat arrived and only 3 or 4 people got off. A van was waiting to take us up into the hills. You felt as if you had taken a giant step back in time.
The Chora, quite small, offered everything you might imagine with its whitewashed architecture and windy streets. With few travelers, locals availed themselves to unhurried interaction. We enjoyed wonderful meals, rich bounty from the sea below. We rented a motorbike and toured the island from one end to the other.
It’s not a big island, but hilly and wind-swept. The solitude and expansive views connected you directly with the natural world. The undulating hills and barren landscapes cascaded downward into secret coves and rocky beaches. It reminded me of island life on a visit to Rhodes in 1965. There were Orthodox Churches topping every ridge. Life was slow. You breathed in the silence and your spirit gave itself to the present moment. There were few souvenirs to buy, only our memories and photos to mark our passage.
Folegandros offered us a refuge from the crowds of Santorini. Yet our sunsets were still magnificent and meditative. Trusting one’s intuition, taking a chance on the unknown, moving off the beaten track, rewarded us with unforgettable memories. We were thankful.
Milos
Milos will blow you away, a volcanic island of unparalleled natural beauty. The lunar landscapes of Sarakinko Beach to the quaint, yet colorful fishing village of Klima, Milos beckons your exploration.
Mkyonos
I was bitten by a dog on Mykonos. That story unfolds with blood streaming from a ripped pant leg. My initial shock turns to fear of rabies and island isolation. Would I find medical attention? Only a few days before, while trekking in the hills above Chora Plaka in Milos, I nearly stepped on a one-meter venomous viper. Thankfully my eye caught its movement and I jumped backward. A hilltop church to my right provided only visual sanctuary. It was as if this highly poisonous viper was protecting these holy grounds. It coiled like a rope and stood up assuming an aggressive posture, yet I also sensed it was looking for a safe retreat. Neither of us was prey to the other. There was only an unintentional momentary crossing of our paths. Unhesitatingly I provided it the space needed. Out of striking range with my system adrenalized the equivalent of 8 cups of coffee, I photographed its departure, as he slowly slithered between rocks into a darker world below. There were no warning signs-Beware Habitat for World’s Deadliest Viper. Who would believe me? Now I had digital proof of our encounter.
Sharing my story with locals, most were in awe of its size. Others said that snakes during the winter do sometimes come to lower elevations and into the village, but all acknowledged my good fortune. I can’t imagine my encounter would encourage tourism.
In my new reality, there was blood. Thankfully The dog’s owner took responsibility and rushed me to a 24/7 clinic. The Greek Doctor cleaned my wound, cut away damaged flesh, and assured me that there had been no rabies on the island for over 20 years. Staph infection from dog bites is extremely high so a course of antibiotics was recommended along with an up to date tetanus vaccine. My pulse returned to normal. I was so grateful to have the wound dressed, that limited sun exposure and sea time, seemed a minor inconvenience.
This was Day 1 Mykonos. How would the remaining week unfold? Already I had experienced a generous dose of Grecian Hospitality. Then I was offered the use of a car for the week to explore the island. There were so many lovely beaches to explore, small villages, and other island treasures. We enjoyed all that Mykonos had to offer.
Mykonos envelops you from within, you’ll never be the same. White-washed buildings, deep blue sea, and windmills once used for grinding grain set the backdrop for calmer days on an island renowned for wealth and endless parties. Little Venice with its waterfront dwellings sits on the sea, poised like a sentinel in waiting. It easy to be drawn through the narrow windy streets and wander into orthodox churches, offering solitude and release from our full days of adventure and exploration.
Crete
Crete, though its remoteness has long vanished, its charm is intact. You’ll need time for Crete. It’s the largest of the Greek Islands, a fitting birthplace for Zeus. It’s full of isolated, mountainous villages. There are historic, ancient settlements like Chania, once a thriving Venetian Harbor, nestled below, snowcapped mountains.
While in Crete, I encountered a very interesting paradox, the Cretan’s Paradox of the Liar. No matter what the liar says, he is always lying and therefore it’s true that he’s a liar. It could be true for me to say that I didn’t enjoy Crete, but it could also be true if I told you that I did enjoy Crete. One statement is true and the other is not. Therefore in at least one instance, I am certainly a liar and you are confronted with the Liar’s Paradox; However, can you know Crete by reading the ramblings of a liar, unraveling the paradox by scrutinizing the liar’s scribbles or must you visit Crete to discover the hidden truth as the photos demonstrate.
Beaches are abundant with many like Elafonisi or Balos Lagoon, more difficult to reach, but their beauty is unsurpassed.
Many other idyllic pebble-stoned beaches are common. Their solitude is precious. Whether you are sunbathing in the soothing Mediterranean light or snorkeling in water, crystal clear blue, both experiences are magical.
The Yummy Factor
Greek cuisine has got to be some of the healthiest food choices on the planet. fresh and local with vegetables grilled or fried in olive oil make a tantalizing presentation. Seafood in abundance captures the imagination and never disappoints. I would be content, savoring daily the tasty dishes that the sea and its islands offer.
And then there is Cretan food which is beyond Greece, influenced by the Italians, Ottoman Empire, an Arabian Cuisine. The variety of handcrafted cheese, fresh-aromatic spices, fruits, juicy or dried, and full-flavored veggies are found in abundance. The surrounding Aegean provides delicious sea fare, only enhanced by an imaginative presentation. No wonder the Cretan diet promotes longevity.
